For days we have been seeing ever more extravagant offerings floating through town carefully balanced on the heads of ornately dressed women. Where are they going with these? That unique culture and religious custom should continue to exist at all in this spot manhandled by an international influx of travelers is beyond comprehension. From the…

Anything but undiscovered Ubud provides us with the serendipity careful planning and guidebook thumping usually rules out. Gamelan music drifting to our nap above the rice fields leads to a walk to the source, a ceremony at a cemetery with demon Barong frightening spirits and attendees alike.