Cranky German

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Illustration of a bird flying.
  • Rice Fields of Sidemen

    Days spent watching a single view, a feverish dream, an impressionist painting. The posts of our veranda have become the heavily gilded frame on this ever changing Pierre Guillaume. Calls to shoo birds away from the precious grains, emphasis added with clanging bamboo halves controlled by long strings from the shed, shared with a patient…

    November 17, 2013
  • Our Favorite Kind of Traffic Jam

    On the way back from our jaunt up Gunung Batur we are caught in the ceremonies that prevented us from climbing the holy and much higher mountain Gunung Agung. As we can’t pass the procession by car we just wander along for a couple of miles.

    November 16, 2013
  • Viewing Gunung Agung From An Overguided Hike Up Gunung Batur

    Oh, hail thee wondrous traveler in tennis shoes and with quizzical look! You cannot be trusted to scale this 1700 m pile of ash and pumice on your own. There may be spewing of poisonous fumes at times (not that we would know when and where) and trails to be missed (if you can’t find…

    November 16, 2013
  • Blessings by the Pemangku

    For days we have been seeing ever more extravagant offerings floating through town carefully balanced on the heads of ornately dressed women. Where are they going with these? That unique culture and religious custom should continue to exist at all in this spot manhandled by an international influx of travelers is beyond comprehension. From the…

    November 14, 2013
  • Setra Desa Pakraman Ubud

    Anything but undiscovered Ubud provides us with the serendipity careful planning and guidebook thumping usually rules out. Gamelan music drifting to our nap above the rice fields leads to a walk to the source, a ceremony at a cemetery with demon Barong frightening spirits and attendees alike.

    November 12, 2013
  • Surfer Dude

    Wave riding has long been replaced by crowd surfing in the moped inferno that is Kuta. The only calm emanates from the serene look of sculptures, traditional or more likely than not Hindu-Euro-Bali-Arabenese. A day of rest in a calm court yard to plot travels yonder the banana pancake trail.

    November 11, 2013
  • Guess the Plane

    November 9, 2013
  • Off to Warmer Climes

    November 9, 2013
  • Zillertal

    October 12, 2013
  • Mail from Overseas

      (c) 2013 Tess

    June 8, 2013
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