The self-declared keeper of the Dur Tsachu hot springs now lives on the west side of river. Sangay Tenzin was sent here on a military expedition by a prior King some 25 years ago or was it 40? The 67 year old remembers the unsuccessful expeditions to Gangkhar Puensum well. He accompanied the climbers with his yaks and has held his post as a hermit at the hot springs since. He moved to the Wangdi side of the river a couple of years ago because his Bumthang native neighbors thought his yaks were damaging the springs. These days the best preserved hot tubs are right by his hut at the river and he will show you with a wry smile how to disrobe and make proper use of them.
He tells his story over a kindly prepared cup of what was to be Katja’s first and last yak butter tea.